Day 3 - Killin to Aberfeldy

Loch Tay!  .....Wow!



Looking back down the loch to Killin



Granted the glorious weather helped, but the scenery was simply stunning. The National Cycle Route 7 takes the minor road along the South side of the loch, and I reckon was passed by only fours cars along it's entire length. Plenty of steep hills to test the mettle, always compensated for by a long descent where I could crank the speed up as fast as my nerve would allow. Could possibly be the best day's cycling I've ever had.



Ben Lawers

I couldn't believe how quickly I came upon Kenmore, 16 miles into the day and I consciously eased off the pace a little, taking in good views of the town itself across the water and the Crannog attraction where an replica Iron Age loch dwelling has been recreated for the tourists - it makes for some stunning photos.



Kenmore

The Crannog

So cocky was I, that I deciced to add on an extra 9 miles by including a long detour to visit the Fortingall Yew, reputed to be the oldest living thing in Europe if not on earth (yes, yes...the jokes are too easy!). At 5000 years old (est) and rumoured to be the birthplace of Pontius Pilate, it's latest job was to provide the shade for my lunch after which I had a quick look round Fortingall itself, which consists - unusually for Scotland - a series of thatched cottages. Very pretty it was too!



Ancient, wizened, weather-beaten....and standing next to the Fortingall Yew!

After lunch, I completed the Fortingall Loop and joined the main trail again, with five uneventful miles taking to my final destination of Aberfeldy. Uneventful doesn't quite cover it. Tedious, dreary, tiresome......some would even say....

Only joking - it's a nice route!

I arrived in the lovley town of Aberfeldy a little bit too early to head to the B&B, so instead I ventured into the town centre and bought a ticket for the newly refurbished Birks Cinema just off the square - a truly wonderful community arts centre. Aberdeen City Council could learn some serious lessons here!


A night at the Picture Hoose in store!

Still feeling I was too early to disturb my hosts for the night at Balnearn House, I ventured up the to The Birks of Aberfeldy, an impressive waterfall complex that so impressed Rabbie Burns it moved him to poetry. It didn't take much to get him going from what I hear - in any walk of life!



The Birks

The Bard

Finally settled in to my B&B for the night (very impressive it is too!) and am currentlys itting in the sumptuous lounge on the leather sofa, watching the clouds roll in over the hills as I type up this nonsense - smug in the knowledge that I certainly got the best of the day!

Today's route can be found here, and tomorrow sees me tackling the relatively short skip (16 miles) to Pitlochry.

 

Day 2 - Callander to Killin

No fire alarms last night, and a blue sky to wake up to. Things were looking up. Some ominous looking clouds to the North were to prove worthy adversaries throughout the day, but I set off in good fettle for the day ahead.

 
The going was good and even the squally showers didn't dampen my spirits as I picked up the disused railway line and cranked up the pace along the section that hugged the shore of Loch Lubnaig.

First sight of Loch Lubnaig - looking promising!

 

As I wound my way towards Balquhidder a classic cocktail of sunshine and showers had me alternately sitting up to enjoy the sun on my back, and crouching low into the headwind squinting through the rain.

Looking even better near Balquhidder....

  

Getting there.....

 

Handy marker....



Normal service resumed at Loch Voil, by Balquhidder.

Photo ops were few and far between despite the evidently fine scenery, however I did stop off to take a snap of the grave of Rob Roy McGregor, a local worthy of these here parts. Now, history is not my strong point but as far as I can work out, Mel Gibson and Liam Neeson got married and had a baby with a strange accent called Rob. Or Roy. Turned out to be a bit of character and is lauded for being the Scottish Robin Hood - without the tights (cue inevitable skirt gag for those South of the border). I'm pretty sure he played for Melchester Rovers too but I could be making that last bit up......



Freeeeeeeedom!!....oh, sorry - wrong movie!

Anyway, after queuing to take a snap (and I'm not joking!) I sheltered from the rain in the church porch with the two steeple jack fellas who were refurbishing the belfry. I got the full, fascinating story from them and they even showed me how to round off a bell rope, which is always handy.

Nice work if you can get it.

I could have happily sat there all day, but the rain stopped and the National Cycle Network 7 beckoned once more and I was soon winding my way up the remarkably steep and zig-zaggy path above Lochearnhead. Views were worth it though.....

Loch Earn

After a long rest at the top 'taking photos', I rocketed off along Glen Ogle, traversing the viaduct long the way, before stopping for lunch then hurtling down the steep descent to my final destination, Killin.
 


Glen Ogle Viaduct

A rare moment of contemplation between the showers.

Nice sleepy wee village Killin, Crazy waterfall system slap bang in the middle though....



Twilight at the Falls of Dochart


Tomorrow sees me skirting the shore of Loch Tay, ultimately heading for Aberfeldy via Kenmore, The forecast is excellent, but I'm not breaking out the Factor 30 just yet.

Today's route can be find here if you're insterested.

Day 1 - Loch Katrine Circuit

I've decided to forego Shank's Pony for this trip, leaving the boots behind and adopting two wheeled transport for this adventure. John at Wheels Bike Hire of Callander could not have been more helpful and after allowing me to try it for size yesterday, dropped off the most magnificent Trek Crossrip, drop handlebar bobby dazzler at my B&B for me to commence my latest expedition this morning.

The mean machine!

 'The Lochs and Glens' route will see me putting my thighs and butt through 99 miles of torture as I make my way from Callander to Pitlochry via Killin and Aberfoyle.

4am fire alarms in the B&B (false thankfully, given I was on the third floor of of a very narrow building) do not constitute the best prep for a 36 mile cycle. However, a blockbuster breakfast soon had me raring to go.

Whilst the the scenery promisesd many delights, the weather forecast most certainly did not. Today bore that out in spades! The chosen route for the first day of my trip was a return loop of Loch Katrine, bringing me back to my B&B in Callander for a second night (please God, no fire alarms this time).

Heavy rain and wind however, did not detract from the magnificence of the landscape, and the steamer SS Sir Walter Scott which took me half way up the loch is truly a thing of beauty.  After skirting Lochs Venachar and Achray for 10 miles or so, the distinctive Victorian buildings of the Loch Katrine were a welcome site, and 50 minutes in the warm bar of the 100+ year old vessel (albeit recently refurbished) was the sensible option once on board.

SS Sir Walter Scott

The flag and the weather go hand in hand (more often than not).

After disembarking, I was quickly back in the saddle with 13 miles of perfectly surfaced, traffic free undulating road guiding me round the top to the loch and back to the pier.

Wonderful stuff!

Hungry native eying up my Snickers.

Wondering if I'll see the sun at all on this trip.....

Brightened up a bit for a wee while.

Callander itself is a bustling wee town, bulging at the seams with adrenalin junkie tourists. Great cycling, walking and sailing are available in abundance and there are plenty of choices for evening sustenance. I'm pretty sure however, I made the best choice possible for tonight's meal. The Lewis family are building up an impressive brand for themselves with the Mohr variants, Mohr Fish being my destination for tonight (just along the road from Mohr Bread). With all fish being locally sourced, the freshness is guaranteed and if I have a better meal on this trip than tonight's seafood pasta (smoked haddock, cod and plaice) I'll be both surprised and delighted.

Very Morh-ish!

A nightcap in the Crags Hotel bar, rounded off the day quite nicely.



Couldn't agree more. Make mine a double!


Tomorrow sees me making my way to Killin via Strathyre, Balquidder and Lochearnhead. Forecast is more of the same - in other words, achey thighs and butt!

Today's route (from after the ferry onwards) can be found here.